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By Cathy Morrell
“We are half-way through our long winter. The sun
is circling at its lowest; each day will bring it nearer
our horizon. The night is at its blackest; each day will
lengthen the pale noon twilight. Until now, the black
shadow has been descending on us; after this, day by day,
it will rise until the great orb looms above our northern
horizon to guide our footsteps over the great trackless
wastes of snow. If the light-hearted scenes of to-day
can end the first period of our captivity, what room for
doubt is there that we shall triumphantly weather the
whole term with the same general happiness and contentment?”
— Capt. Robert Falcon Scott
The words written by Capt. Scott in 1905 describe the
sentiment of the men on Scott’s exploration party
as they celebrated the midwinter solstice. This same attitude
prevails today for all those who spend the winter season
in Antarctica.
While the winter solstice takes place on or around June
21 in the southern hemisphere and Dec. 21 in the northern
hemisphere, it is not a much-heralded event around the
world. Except in Antarctica. Here it has developed into
a highly celebrated and often lavish holiday for those
who spend the winter on the Ice.
The history of the midwinter celebration stretches back
as far as Neolithic times. For example, ancient archeological
sites such as Stonehenge and New Grange appear aligned
with the solar solstice. Midwinter festivals developed
feast celebrations as people consumed the last of the
fresh food and meat before the deep winter began.
Midwinter festivals may also have developed as therapeutic
events for cultures dealing with the darkness of the season.
Traditional celebrations involved large fires, illumination,
dancing and singing — perhaps winter therapies to
combat the malaise brought on by long periods of cold
and dark.
Midwinter in Antarctica is perhaps the most international
of holidays, celebrated equally by people of all nationalities
at every station in Antarctica, regardless of politics,
national views or religion. Across the continent, messages
of greeting and goodwill are sent via e-mail to everyone
celebrating the special day. No doubt, many blog about
the event to friends, family and readers back home.
A century before the digital age, the early explorers
kept meticulous records of their expeditions in diaries,
including midwinter celebrations.
Pretty much everyone writes about the food. While Antarctic
living has come a long way from cold, unheated huts and
ship cabins, the ability to store food over these long
months is still very much the same. Both then and now,
the residents of the Antarctic winter survive mostly on
canned or frozen meats and vegetables, with little in
the way of variety. The Midwinter Dinner has always been
a welcome break from the monotony and bleakness of the
daily menu. In every journal, blog and diary, there is
always a lengthy passage describing the meal in great
detail.
Scott, in particular, wrote eloquently about the midwinter
repast:
In 1905: “At six we had our dinner in the wardroom,
with the table decorated and the display of all our plate.
Starting with turtle soup, we passed on to a generous
helping of mutton, and from that to plum pudding, mince
pies, and jellies, all washed down with an excellent dry
champagne. With a largely assorted dessert of crystallized
fruits, almonds and raisins and nuts came the port and
liqueurs, which brought us into good form. … With
such a dinner we agreed that life in the Antarctic Regions
was worth living …”
From his fatal 1913 expedition: “At seven o’clock
we sat down to an extravagant bill of fare as compared
with our usual simple diet. Beginning on seal soup, by
common consent the best decoction that our cook produces,
we went on to roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, fried
potatoes and Brussel sprouts. Then following a flaming
plum-pudding and excellent mince pies, and thereafter
a dainty savoury of anchovy and cod’s roe.”
Many journals include such an exact listing of the menu,
with many exotic and unusual (and now illegal) dishes,
such as the Pingouin a la Terre Adélie (Adélie
Penguin) listed in Douglas Mawson’s account in The
Home of the Blizzard. The dinner this year at McMurdo
Station , while less gamey, was equally delicious, with
beef tenderloin and duck on the menu.
Along with a lavish feast, midwinter celebrations across
the years and the continent have included music, plays
and other forms of revelry. From the Age of Exploration
to the early days the U.S. Antarctic Program , Antarctica
was a place dominated by men. This often led to interesting
versions of theater, with some of the men dressing up
as women and playing roles in much-enjoyed skits and plays.
While co-ed research stations are the norm today, even
in winter, the celebrations still reflect the history
and tradition of years past. Costumes and skits still
prevail in many of the station celebrations, although
now there is less need for cross-dressing. In a more modern
twist to the celebration, many station events feature
homegrown rock bands and dance parties.
Marking the inevitable and anticipated return of the
sun upon the horizon and the dawning of a new season,
midwinter brings with it a feeling of hope and a renewed
sense of purpose and possibility. And no matter what changes
come with the passing of time and the rise of new technology,
many of the hardships remain the same — as well as
the traditions that we carry on from expedition to expedition,
station to station, and generation to generation.
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Antarctic
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